The Limfjord in the north of Denmark is a beautiful and ideal habitat for the Danish mussels. The area stretches from the North Sea to the Kattegat, and the many salt-water lakes maintain an open connection to the sea. Mussels and other shellfish have been caught here for centuries. When driving along the fjord, in almost every village you pass you will see some expression of the proud mussel fishery, mostly in the form of a sculpture. The opening of the seasons is traditionally welcomed by lots of mussel feasts and other festivities. An important advantage of the Danish mussel is that it is available just when the Dutch season is closed. So that allows us to always enjoy this delicacy!
Fishes works with the mussel fishers from the small town of Nybøking on the island of Mors. When not out fishing, all mussel boats lie side by side in the port. The boats are generally a light blue and not longer than 10 metres, and are operated by two on-board crew at most. But the skipper will often go out on his own as well, as personnel tends to be too costly for the small-scale sustainable fishery. During the season, the boats make daily trips to the mussel grounds in the Limfjord. There, the mussels are caught using a net that partly scrapes along the sandy bottom. As the mussels emerge from the water they are shaken from side to side as a teabag. This way, the blue shellfish are given their first rinse to remove the sand.
The Danish fleet in this region is the first mussel fishery in the world to carry the MSC certificate for sustainable fishery. The company that Fishes works with is also involved in various education programmes about enhancing the sustainability of the mussel catch in the Limfjord. The company is moreover dedicated to supporting the community, paying 60% more than the minimum wage, in addition to offering flexible working hours. They simply do not want to see young potential mussel fishermen depart for the big cities. This way, this wonderful fishing industry will continue to exist for future generations.
By Bart van Olphen
In May 2009 I spoke to Benny, mussel fisherman from Nybøking Mors.
Bart: “For how long have you been a mussel fisherman?”
Benny: “I was 14 when my father literally came to take me from school. I had to go into fishing, just like he and my grandfather. I never did anything else since then. And not much has changed since then either, except that the rules have become a bit stricter, which I can only welcome.”
Bart: “What does a typical fishing day look like for you?”
Benny: “The advantage of this fishing industry is that you don't need to go out into the open sea, which makes us a lot less dependent on the weather. You are also more or less free to choose your own moment to go out fishing. We prefer not to fish when the sun is out, so that we can keep the mussels as cool as possible. Before I set out I always check my cables and machines one last time, because my equipment must always operate properly. As I cannot afford the cost of extra manpower I generally work alone, so I depend entirely on my equipment. As soon as I exit the harbour I head full throttle for the mussel grounds which I know like the back of my hand. The catch takes a few hours, and then I return to shore. So this type of fishing is really very different from fishing out at sea. But things can get quite spooky when the weather turns foul here, as well!”
Bart: “Does sustainable fishing run in your blood?”
Benny: “We are so proud of our MSC certificate. We haven't done any differently since decades, but this independent hallmark does recognise our work methods. And it helps us access new markets. Whoever would have thought that fresh Danish mussels would be available on Dutch market stands? That's great, right?”
Bart: “How do you like your mussels?”
Benny: “In the Danish style, or better said, the Limfjord style. We cook the mussels in a closed pot with onion and Aquavit, that´s our national alcoholic delicacy. Just before serving you add some fresh herbs, and that´s it. You should come taste them at our annual mussel feast!”
