This small-scale sustainable fishery in the Pacific Ocean is run by several families, mostly from the San Diego area. During the summer months all the boats, which generally don't exceed 12 metres in length, are far out on the Pacific Ocean, catching this marvellous tuna. An Albacore tuna reaches an age of between 10 and 12 years and spends its life coursing through the ocean in large groups. Contrary to many other tuna species, the Albacore tuna is doing very well. The traditional fishing technique used means that there is no bycatch and that the fish population remains steady.

Once the fishing industry around San Diego was famed for the gigantic amounts of sardines caught here. Portuguese and Italian immigrants earned a handsome living as fishermen. But the sardine population declined at the start of the 20th century, and so the focus shifted to tuna. The tuna fishery rapidly evolved into a mega industry that ultimately ended disastrously, in the 1970s. There was a huge bycatch of dolphins, and the canning factories were relocated to low-wage countries. But the families now active in this fishery have always retained the traditional fishing techniques, using line and hook. Around ten years ago the fishery stood on the brink of collapse but the fishermen persevered, and the MSC certification has helped them access new markets and to generate sufficient income to further develop their activities. The American Albacore fishery is the only tuna fishery worldwide to be MSC certified as a sustainable fishery.

By Bart van Olphen

On 17 July 2009 I meet up with Larry in Newport. Larry is the skipper of the Orca. He just sailed in half an hour ago with a boat full of freshly caught Albacore tuna.

Bart: “You've just returned from out at sea, how long were you gone?”
Larry: “We load enough diesel to keep us at sea for 30 days, but generally we come back in after around 17 days. This time the catch was great so we spent just 14 days at sea. As soon as the holding tanks are full we come back, and this time it filled up very quickly.”

Bart: “Do you come back in with frozen fish only?”
Larry: “Only the fish we catch in the last few days is kept outside the freezer. The rest of the tuna is frozen using the latest technology immediately after it's caught. That way, when the fish is defrosted it's actually fresher than the fresh fish we bring in. Plus, all the nutritional values and flavours are preserved in optimal condition. This fish is used for the sashimi market and the cannery, and to make smoked tuna.”

Bart: “Is it lonely out at sea?”
Larry: “We're used to it. With my mate Jerry we have no trouble getting through the days. An hour before sunrise we get up and drink coffee. As soon as the sun is up we start working, and we don't stop till nightfall. At this moment, in the midst of summer, it means 18 hours of hard work! It's only when the sun goes down that you realize where you are and that's when I often miss my family.”

Bart : “Can you tell me a bit about how you came to be a fisherman?”
Larry: “I was eight years old when my father first took me out to sea. And I just never stopped since then. First I fished for large crab and pollock on the Bering Sea, and after that it was tuna. When I turned eighteen I bought my first boat.”

Bart: “How do you like to eat the tuna you catch?”
Larry: “This fish is so full of oil that you actually shouldn't touch it too much. Its own flavour is so fantastic! I like to brush it with oil, sprinkle some salt and pepper, and straight onto the BBQ. Bit of lettuce and french fries on the side, and a glass of beer. Enjoy!”

De Telegraaf, 2008
“Witte Tonijn”

Elsevier, Johannes van Dam, 2008
“Albacore”

NRC Handelsblad, 2008
“Tonijn aan de lijn”

Horeca Misset, 2008
“Chefs Tuna Battle”

HP De Tijd, 2008
“Het betere blik”

Trouw, 2008
“Groene tonijn in blik”

Vrij Nederland, 2009
“Lang leve de tonijn”